I admit it, gin is not my go to medium when crafting cocktails. As a Kentuckian I am convinced a bourbon cocktail pairs with most anything, even seafood. Plus I enjoy turning non-whiskey drinkers on to the rich warm spirit of my ancestors. Because of this singular focus, gin has been slightly elusive in my cocktail repertoire over the past few years.

“Navigation Cocktail photo by Jorge Gera”

Still I have consumed my share of gin cocktails, judged on panels with some of the finest gin spirits in the world and teach gin production and history from time to time to both bartenders and enthusiasts, but until recently I had not fully explored the gin cocktail as a foundation for a beverage menu. At least until I begin creating the frame-work for the cocktails at Joe Fish Chicago.

Keeping true to the concept, I begin an outline of flavors and spirits which would compliment and enhance the Italian inspired seafood menu. Dish after dish, my mind kept considering the classic gin cocktails because of their vibrant aromas, fresh acidity and complexity of finish which eventually led me to create a selection of gin-centric cocktails including the Navigation, an interpretation of the classic Aviation cocktail.

As prohibition-era cocktails go, the Aviation is a perfect for a seafood concept because of its crisp acidity and delicate floral aromatics.  Bartender Hugo Ensslin is credited with creating this cocktail in New York City at the Hotel Wallick at the turn of the twentieth century when Americans were obsessed with flight.  The pale blue, almost lavender hue of the cocktail which matched the colors of the sky during flight is thought to be the reason for the original name.  The first recorded recipe calls for a generous pour of gin, two parts in fact to one part fresh lemon juice and half parts each of Maraschino Liqueur and Creme de Violette.  Around the 1930’s the recipe lost its namesake violet color when recipes dropped the Creme de Violette from the cocktail essentially evolving into a gin sour. Around the 1960’s it became impossible to reproduce the original with the disappearance of the Creme de Violette from the US market which remained obscure till 2007 when Rothman and Winter released their Creme de Violette liqueur once again giving bartenders the opportunity to make the Aviation soar with its pale blue hue once more.

Before I could create an interpretation of an Aviation I had to decide on which gin to use for the foundation.  After testing a few of the mainstays, as well as local crafts, I decide on a gin from the Pacific Northwest, an American style gin who name is Aviation after the classic cocktail.  There is a softness to Aviation gin which restrains the use of Juniper opting to balance it citrus and floral aromas with a crisp, clean finish.  The acidity and softness of perfume compliments many seafood dishes including west coast oysters. Next I selected The Bitter Truth Violet Liqueur a more restrained and delicate version of the classic purple liqueur and of course opted to keep with tradition by using Luxardo Maraschino to balance the sour to the sweetness.  With three base elements selected it now was time to have a little fun by switching the lemon to lime which mingled nicely with the violet liqueur and added a couple of dashes of orange bitters to lift and emphasize the citrus undertones of the Aviation Gin.

The finished recipe, named the Navigation, is a vibrant cocktail with a soft floral complexity and citrus tone it is enjoyable both an aperitif and with dinner.  Pair with crudo, shellfish oyster on the half shell and especially a Dover Sole with a lemon butter sauce.